Secreted away in the CAFA studio last Sunday - one of the very few days in the year when we're not running classes or workshops - a small group of us tested a new Eureka Pants pattern. We were intrigued by the option of three back choices for each size - to accommodate a variety of derrieres and crotch depths - and were hopeful of landing a winner to recommend in our classes. More specifically, we wanted to test this pattern to make jeans. Spoiler alert: we were not disappointed with the terrific results. If you're keen to make jeans or pants, you could tackle these in our intermediate dressmaking class. 

I was joined by two teachers and two experienced students who volunteered to fit-test the pattern. We range in age from 20s to 50s and represent a good mix of sizes and shapes. Here's what we collectively learnt. 

If you have basic sewing skills, you could tackle a pair of custom-fit jeans or pants in our Intermediate Dressmaking Class. The Eureka Pants Pattern is available for students to purchase.

Jeans Are Just Pants.

The jeanious is all in the denim and the details. You CAN alter a well-drafted pants pattern and add pockets and top-stitching to match your fave jeans, but you have to get the fit right first. At the risk of sharing TMI, the critical part of your jeans pattern is the crotch. This is the starting point for fitting. Rather than making too many adjustments here, it's way better to hoik the whole garment up to fit your crotch and then to alter the waistline. And speaking of waistlines, if you always wear long tops, shirts or tunics with your jeans, don't get too hung up about low-rise or high-rise waists, just pick what's comfortable for you. 

Make Peace With Your Body. 

If you start by accepting and embracing the body you have - not the one you used to have or hope to have - it makes the fitting process a whole lot easier. Focus on what flatters your body shape and makes you look (and feel) good.

Own Your Style. Fashion, Not So Much. 

Remember the last time you found your dream jeans? The perfect fit. Great denim. Reasonably priced. Okay, scrap the last one we can all find a way to justify spending lots on the perfect jeans ... And then the unthinkable happens. They stop making them. Worse still, you hate all the alternatives. Here's something to think about. 3,600 people in Australia over the last year searched Google for "bootleg jeans" compared to 2,400 for "skinny jeans". There's no judgement here other than wear what you like - if you can find it. If you can't find jeans you love ... read on. 

Great Jeans Start With Great Denim.

When you're shopping for denim, it's hard to know what you're actually buying. A little stretch is a good thing - but too much stretch and you'll end up with saggy baggy jeans that you'll likely never wear. Ditto cheap denims that often warp and are off-grain. We used a navy-black mid-weight broken weave denim from Japan. The diagonal weave of the twill is reversed at every regular intervals to form an even design. This creates a flatter fabric that eliminates the leg twist effect. If you're interested in denim, check out Pacific Blue Denims' amazing denim dictionary.

Jeans Can Also Work For Work

When you have the option to choose how much contrasting top-stitching and detailing you want on your jeans, you can create a really versatile and stylish pair of jeans that you can wear to work. Especially now the office rules have relaxed a little.  

The Wearable Toile. 

The great thing about denim is that it's really sturdy. The multiple fit lines that you've machine-stitched onto your test garment - and I can't over-estimate the value of fit lines - are easy to remove without damaging your fabric. If you cut your seam allowances generously, you will almost always be able to wear your toile. In our test group of five, we all achieved this. 

Measure and Fit Once. Make Them Again, and Again ... 

Once you finesse your pattern and fit, transfer it to heavy-duty card with all of your key measurements. This will be your blueprint to make many, many more pairs of jeans - in fact, any kind of pants.