BEVERLEY THIRKELL
ADVANCED SEWING PROJECTS
We’re thrilled to share the sewing journey of Bev Thirkell — one of our most advanced and prolific students at CAFA. She’s produced so many stunning and polished garments that she finds a joy to wear.
Bev’s pink structured silk pique mother-of-the-bride dress.
CAFA: How did you learn to sew?
BT: My grandmother — Alice — worked as a seamstress for Sir Neville and Georgina Bowman-Shaw of Toddington Manor* in Bedfordshire, UK. When I was about 9 or 10, she taught me to sew on her Singer treadle sewing machine and my first project was an apron.
Even advanced sewists can improve their pattern making and sewing techniques.
CAFA: How would you rate your skill level when you started with us?
BT: Although I was an advanced sewist, I lacked the finishing techniques for truly polished garments. My wedding dress — made during the Princess Diana era — gained a rose for every mistake I made. It ended up looking like a decorated cake. Definitely room for improvement!
This cotton sateen dress with fabric designed by a textile artist was created by draping on the dress form. There wasn’t enough of this beautiful fabric to match patterns at centre front but look at the beautiful harmony created by the the placement of the pattern pieces.
CAFA: What did you hope to learn when you started?
BT: I wanted to design my own garments and learn pattern making from scratch. Commercial patterns didn’t always suit my style and after a couple of broken bones and the changes that came with middle age, they often needed adjustments to fit comfortably.
The beautiful drape of this skirt is enhanced by self godets which create the flared tulip shape. While most of Bev’s wardrobe is made from natural fibres, this polyester skirt has it’s place - it’s easy care and it can be dressed up or down with shoes and accessories to make it perfect for casual or work wear.
CAFA: Have you padded a dress form to your personal measurements?
BT: Yes! It’s brilliant as it evolves with my mature shape.
A classic, bespoke woollen coat that will last a lifetime. Seen here on Bev’s custom padded dress form, this classic style has been proportioned to her figure. The buttons provide creativity and individuality (the second button is concealed on the inside of the garment).
CAFA: How has your time with CAFA improved your skills?
BT: Most of all, accuracy, accuracy and accuracy! It makes a huge difference to everything from ease of sewing, finish and fit.
I’ve learnt to how to fit garments to my body — especially my shoulder area where I’ve broken bones — and now understand where and why standard sizing didn’t work for me.
These trousers are a lovey addition to a casual wardrobe. The striped pair are made from polyester fabric from Spotlight.
BT: Using the same fitting principles, I’ve made a bespoke jacket for my husband and dresses for my daughter. I’ve also learnt many couture sewing techniques that take my garments up a notch in terms of quality and appearance.
I really enjoy draping a pattern on my dress form and prefer it to flat pattern making. It’s more visual and I can be more creative and I can change the design as I go.
This Thai silk shirt was made from fabric donated to the studio. Note the beautiful pattern matching down the centre front and the careful overall placement of the fabric pattern.
BT: I now have the skills to successfully replicate my favourite garments and make adjustments to vintage patterns for a modern fit.
I’ve got a much better understanding of the tools I need for more polished results — hams, pressing aids, scissor types and sewing equipment — and have created a dedicated sewing space to use them.
Bev’s grandmother — Alice — in the wedding dress she likely made herself.
CAFA: What types of garments have you sewn with us?
BT: Pretty much everything! A mother-of-the-bride dress, eveningwear, dresses, skirts, pants, blouses and shirts, jackets (including a jeans jacket) and coats.
*Parts of Toddington Manor date back to 1562. My grandmother did all the invisible mending for the household (an art in itself), as well as making clothes for the family’s children.
CAFA: We have a range of specialised Advanced Sewing Classes (including Tailoring, French Jacket, Couture Sewing, Lace or Leather Skirts and Personalised Dress Form) as well as an Advanced Dressmaking Class for any garment made from a commercial pattern.
*Parts of Toddington Manor date back to 1562. My grandmother did all the invisible mending for the household (an art in itself), as well as making clothes for the family’s children.